Finding the right set of yamaha blaster a arms can totally transform how your quad feels when you're carving through tight trails or hitting jumps at the local pit. If you've owned a Blaster for more than a week, you probably already know that while these little 200cc machines are an absolute blast to ride, they aren't exactly known for having the widest or most stable footprint. In fact, most people describe the stock ride as "tippy," which isn't exactly a confidence booster when you're trying to keep up with bigger 450s.
The stock front end is pretty narrow. That's great for weaving through trees that are spaced three feet apart, but for literally everything else, it's a bit of a struggle. Upgrading your a-arms is usually the first "big" mod people do after they get an exhaust and some decent tires. It's the change that moves the Blaster from feeling like a beginner's toy to feeling like a serious sport ATV.
Why You Should Probably Ditch the Stock Setup
Let's be real—the factory yamaha blaster a arms were designed back in the day with a specific budget and rider in mind. They're made of decent steel, but they're short. When you have a narrow quad with a relatively high center of gravity, you end up on two wheels more often than you'd like.
If you've ever felt like you were going to over-rotate in a sharp corner, that's your suspension telling you it's too narrow. By swapping to a wider set, usually referred to as "+2" or even "+3" arms, you're literally pushing each front wheel out two or three inches. That extra width increases your stability exponentially. It's not just about not flipping over, though; it's about how the quad tracks. A wider front end helps the Blaster stay flat through corners, allowing you to carry way more speed than you ever could on the stock setup.
Another big reason to upgrade is durability. If you're jumping your Blaster or riding hard in rocky terrain, those stock arms can bend. Once they're tweaked, your alignment goes out the window, your tires wear unevenly, and the quad starts pulling to one side. Most aftermarket yamaha blaster a arms are built from 4130 chromoly, which is significantly stronger and often lighter than the factory stuff.
Choosing Between Standard and Long Travel
When you start shopping for yamaha blaster a arms, you're going to run into two main categories: standard travel and long travel. This is where a lot of guys get confused and potentially spend money they don't need to.
Standard travel arms are designed to work with your stock-length shocks (or aftermarket shocks designed for the stock length). These are the most common choice for recreational riders. You get the width and the improved geometry without having to spend a fortune on specialized long-travel shocks. It's a "bolt-on and go" kind of situation for the most part.
Long travel arms, on the other hand, require a much longer shock. The shock mount on the a-arm is moved further down, allowing for a longer shock body and more wheel travel. This is the holy grail for racers or people who want to turn their Blaster into a mini-trophy truck. It's way more expensive, though, because you can't just reuse your old shocks. If you're just hitting trails on the weekend, standard travel +2 arms are usually more than enough.
The Mystery of +2+1 and What It Means
You'll often see yamaha blaster a arms listed as "+2+1." If you're new to the world of ATV geometry, those numbers might seem a bit cryptic. It's actually pretty simple.
The first number (+2) refers to the width. This means the arms are two inches wider per side, making the quad four inches wider overall. The second number (+1) refers to the "forward" placement. This means the ball joints are moved one inch forward from the stock position.
Why move them forward? It lengthens the wheelbase. A longer wheelbase makes the quad more stable at high speeds and helps keep the front end down when you're climbing hills or pinning the throttle. For a small quad like the Blaster, that extra inch of wheelbase makes it feel much more like a full-sized machine.
Let's Talk About Installation (and the Headaches)
Swapping out your yamaha blaster a arms isn't the hardest job in the world, but it can be a real test of patience if your quad hasn't been apart in a decade. The biggest enemy here is rust. The long pivot bolts that hold the a-arms to the frame are notorious for seizing inside the bushings.
Before you even start, I'd recommend soaking everything in a good penetrating oil for a day or two. If those bolts are stuck, you might find yourself needing a torch or a very large hammer. But once the old arms are off, the new ones usually slide right in.
One thing people often forget is that when you go wider, your stock brake lines and tie rods won't reach anymore. Most decent aftermarket kits come with the extended tie rods you need, but you'll almost certainly have to buy longer braided stainless steel brake lines. It's an extra expense, but honestly, the improved braking feel from the stainless lines is a nice little bonus anyway.
Adjusting Your New Setup: Camber and Caster
Once the new yamaha blaster a arms are bolted on, you aren't quite finished. Most aftermarket arms are "fully adjustable." This is a blessing and a curse. It's great because you can fine-tune the handling, but it's a curse because if you get it wrong, the quad will handle like a shopping cart with a bad wheel.
Camber is the tilt of the tires when viewed from the front. You generally want a little bit of "negative camber," meaning the tops of the tires lean inward slightly. This helps the tire stay flat on the ground when the quad leans in a turn.
Caster is the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the side. This affects how much the quad wants to go straight and how "heavy" the steering feels. If you have too much caster, it'll be hard to turn; too little, and the quad will feel twitchy and nervous at high speeds. Most people find a middle ground that balances stability with easy steering.
Maintaining Your Investment
After you've spent the money and put in the work to install your yamaha blaster a arms, you want them to last. The biggest killer of aftermarket suspension is lack of grease.
Most high-quality a-arms come with grease zerk fittings. Use them! Every few rides, or especially after a muddy trip or a pressure wash, pump some fresh grease into those pivots. It pushes out the dirt and moisture and keeps everything moving smoothly. Also, keep an eye on your ball joints. Most aftermarket arms use replaceable automotive-style ball joints. If you start feeling "clunking" in the front end or see the boots are torn, swap them out before they fail completely.
Is It Worth the Money?
If you plan on keeping your Blaster for a while, absolutely. It's probably the single most impactful handling mod you can do. You'll find yourself riding faster, feeling safer, and having way more fun because you aren't constantly fighting the machine to stay upright.
It makes the Blaster feel like a much more modern, capable machine. Whether you're grabbing a budget-friendly set of steel arms or going all out with a high-end chromoly racing setup, the difference over stock is night and day. Just make sure you budget for those longer brake lines and take the time to get your alignment right. Your arms (both the ones on the quad and the ones attached to your shoulders) will thank you.